Text and photos by Giovanni Carraro

For the townsfolk of Vittorio Veneto, Monte Altare is more than just a great place for hiking. It’s a perfect natural venue for exercising right on the doorstep of Vittorio Veneto and a popular weekend destination.
As well as providing an opportunity to keep fit, the mountain is home to a site of great historical importance: the remains of a sanctuary dating back to the 6th century BC and which was in use for over a thousand years, have been found on its slopes. Its easy access makes this mountain an ideal destination: just park your car in the village of Ceneda and within minutes you can be ascending this beautiful trail.

THE WALK

The walk starts and finishes in Piazza Giovanni Paolo I, which is framed by a number of historic buildings including the Cathedral, the Loggia del Cenedese, the Episcopal Seminary and a 16th-century fountain. Exit the square along Via Brevia, which leads to the castle of San Martino, the bishop’s official residence. Shortly after, take the Via Crucis on the left which leads to the Colle di San Paolo, site of the oratory of San Paolo al Monte (at this point we recommend taking a short detour towards the Palasi, an ancient medieval fortress and panoramic viewpoint overlooking the town).
Exit through Porta di San Zuane archway and descend the steep path to the north. At the valley floor skirt around the Casa Segat house. Next enter a meadow and start the ascent to the summit of Monte Altare itself. Tackle a slightly challenging section to reach a small pass, then continue along the rocky ridge to reach the large cross located on the panoramic foresummit. Measuring ten metres high and four metres wide, this cross is a war memorial which was erected in 1953. At its base you’ll notice a large concrete starfish topped with an anchor, which is a tribute to sailors.
The summit affords commanding views of the town of Vittorio Veneto below, as well as the mountains of Col Visentin, Pizzoc, the hamlet of Serravalle and the hillside village of Fregona.

Continue ascending the ridge, negotiating some easy rock steps to quickly reach the highest point, Colle Maledicto. The stone steps and boulders surrounding the summit provide evidence of ancient settlements. From the summit, start the descent northwards, initially through a wood, then across the grassy amphitheatre of Pra Liss, and finally down a country lane that leads to the small hamlet of Case Foda.
Cross the courtyard with its stone well surrounded by some old houses, and descend Via Del Monte Altare and then Via Dei Posoccon, which was the ancient road connecting the hamlets of San Lorenzo and Ceneda. After a skirting a short section of the A27 motorway, enter the tiny settlement of Case Posoccon, then walk along a quiet country road that leads round the hill of Colle di San Paolo.
Once back on the outskirts of Ceneda, take a short detour to admire the temple of San Rocco, built on the remains of an ancient fortification called Castrum Sancti Elisei. Now walk along Via San Rocco next to the Villa Papadopoli park to return once more to Piazza Giovanni Paolo I and the end of the walk.

INTERESTING FACTS

Monte Altare has always had something of the mystical about it. Signs of human settlement on this mountain date back to well before the Romans, and the unusually homogeneous rounded stone situated on the westernmost peak is generally thought to be a megalith, similar to those found in northern Europe and Sardinia.
An altar discovered here was used for conducting pagan rituals dating back to the 6th century BC, and archaeological digs carried out a few years ago have even unearthed some ithyphallic bronzes and metal plaques that ancient peoples would have hung on trees. Evidence has also been found suggesting orgiastic rituals took place on the meadows of Pra Liss, which is why Christians later named this peak Colle Maledicto (The Cursed Hill).

THE ITINERARY

Start and end point: Ceneda, Piazza Giovanni Paolo I

Coordinates: 45°54’0.04″N 12°10’28.46″E

Total time required: 2h 45m

Total ascent: 403 m

Distance: 6.6 km

Difficulty: medium