Dining with a view
Structure with enjoying views: a short guide to restaurants with panoramic terraces, where outstanding food is served against a backdrop of extraordinary beauty
The hills of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene are a landscape of remarkable beauty, one whose appeal has been amplified by their recent UNESCO recognition. A labyrinth of woodland, vineyards and impossibly steep slopes, they reveal breathtaking vistas at every turn – moments of wonder that never lose their power to surprise. We met three leading figures in local hospitality whose restaurants, each offering its own distinctive cuisine, share one exceptional feature: terraces and scenic locations offering truly spectacular views.
THE TERRACE OVERLOOKING ROLLE
“Every time I step out onto the terrace, if I don’t stop and look at the view, I feel as though something is missing. We’re training for paradise here,” says Alberto Resera of Andreetta in Rolle, a hamlet of Cison di Valmarino with more than 1,100 years of history and deep-rooted traditions, set before a magnificent natural amphitheatre. “In the 1950s my grandfather, Lorenzo Andreetta, who managed the estates of the Counts Brandolini d’Adda in Cison di Valmarino, bought three farms with a bank loan. There were months when he simply couldn’t keep up with the repayments so he would invite the bank managers to lunch to keep them happy – and that’s where it all began”.
The trattoria, now also a bed and breakfast, has been operating since 1967. “There was already a terrace then, although much smaller than today’s. The current one took shape in the late 1980s. My mother-in-law cooked grilled meats, just as most local trattorias did at the time. A group of young people from Conegliano used to come regularly and some of their friends from Milan started calling us Terrazza Martini. That’s how the story behind the nickname we’re still known by today began”. In 1984 Alberto, who had previously worked as a motorway technician, took over the business with his wife. “I’ve always had a passion for hospitality, perhaps because I was born in an osteria. Little by little we renovated and modernised, keeping tradition alive while introducing more creative dishes”.
ANDREETTA RISTORANTE B&B
Rolle di Cison di Valmarino
Via Enotria 5
+39 0438 85 761
www.andreetta.it
AUTHENTIC COMFORT
Francesca Dalla Balla of Locanda Mamagiò in Valdobbiadene welcomes us to her property: “We identify strongly with the word locanda. It has always represented hospitality in its broadest sense – somewhere to sleep and somewhere to eat. Romano Vedova, the owner, has always believed in that concept: a place that offers comfort, shelter and security. A place where people feel good. We have six rooms that allow guests to appreciate the peace and tranquillity of this setting”.
The locanda also offers a distinctive dining experience, with a style of cooking that sits somewhat outside the conventions of a territory deeply attached to tradition. “Domenico Riccardi’s cuisine is an experience in itself. It begins with simple ingredients and transforms them into masterpieces which, while beautifully presented and full of flavour, never lose their authenticity”.
Working among these hills, she believes, brings a sense of serenity. “We have the privilege of living in an extraordinary setting. I’m fortunate enough to be here all year round, from sunrise to sunset, watching the landscape change with the seasons and the light. It’s like living inside a painting that is constantly being renewed. And then there’s the terrace, suspended in the heart of nature. Suspended because the panorama surrounds you completely, with colours that truly make the difference. It’s not only the green of the vineyards, but also the light, the shadows and the reflections. This is a place of sensations, and we do our best to share them with our guests”.
LOCANDA MAMAGIÒ
Valdobbiadene
Via Roccat e Ferrari 52
+39 331 477 07 34
locandamamagio.com
DINING WITH A VIEW OVER TRIESTE
In Arfanta, meanwhile, visitors can discover the “Terrazza Serena” of Ristorante Albergo da Tullio. The terrace was created just over twenty years ago, in 2003. Roberto explains: “I’ve worked here since 1983 and today I own the business together with my sister Nadia. Both of our parents were born in these hills but met in Milan. When they returned in 1956, they later began organising lunches for hunters in my grandfather’s osteria. In the 1970s a central dining room and guest rooms were added, the latter renovated in 2015. Back then the menu featured risottos, baked pasta, spit-roasted meats and grilled dishes.”
As tourism developed, the business grew stronger. Yet, “during the summer months in the early 2000s, hardly anyone came. We didn’t even bother preparing the spiedo. The restaurants nearby that offered outdoor dining were always full, so it became essential for us to build a terrace. It wasn’t even finished – there were still beams lying on the ground – and people were already coming to eat outside”.
The view from here is particularly striking. On clear days, the eye can wander from the Gulf of Trieste to Istria and the mountains of Slovenia. “The evening air is wonderfully cool and you almost always need a light jumper. We welcome many international visitors, and most of that growth has been driven by the UNESCO recognition. Last year alone, we hosted guests from 31 different countries”.