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At Clemi’s the heart leads the way

Osteria "Al Castelletto": an iconic place
Osteria Al Castelletto

For the uninitiated Osteria “Al Castelletto” in Pedeguarda is a charming rustic restaurant that sits along the road leading from Pieve di Soligo to Follina. For locals, however, it’s affectionately known as Clemi’s – the name of the osteria’s charismatic chef, host and owner.

Clemi is Clementina Viezzer, the life blood of what was once an ancient inn and post office. It’s situated beneath the 15th-century Pedeguarda castle, an ancient defensive outpost of the Brandolini counts who ruled over the valley until the late 18th century.

Self-taught, Clemi learned to love refined living and fine dining through her childhood experiences spent in the company of the descendants of the Brandolini family, for whom her father worked as a gardener, spending time in their homes and alongside their internationally-acclaimed chefs.
Understandable, then, that when she bought the osteria in 1977 she wasn’t satisfied with just serving up wine and ordinary fare, as the previous management had done, and transformed it into something really quite special.
She furnished the premises in a style blending elegance and sobriety, aristocracy and simplicity, and started offering local seasonal cuisine, without remaining unduly tied to tradition, weaving a story into each dish and seeking the true essence of every ingredient.

The main ingredient though is heart,” says Nicola Bof, Clemi’s brilliant nephew, who has been running the restaurant with Clemi for over ten years now, and for whom the establishment is more of a lifestyle than just an osteria.

People sense the passion that Aunt Clementina infuses into everything.
She does this by personally curating every detail herself, from the tablecloth fabrics to the colourful serving bowls, and from the ingredients – many of which come from our vegetable garden or from local suppliers who we count as part of the family – to the freshly-cut flowers renewed daily in the large vases placed around the restaurant.
But she also listens to her patrons, who often become friends, and for whom she’ll even open the restaurant if they request it on days when the restaurant is officially closed. She possesses the innate gift of knowing how to care for people and has a keen aesthetic sense for both objects and flavours. It’s a quality our guests immediately recognise as soon as they enter”.

Step into Clemi’s and the first thing you see is the large fireplace that’s always lit. The walls are adorned with ancient paintings, historic frescoes and distinctive red and white stripes – a nod to the Brandolini family’s coat of arms.

Move further in, and you reach the more intimate library room or the brightly-lit veranda, both of which are adorned with artisanal tablecloths and hand-embroidered cushions, crystal glasses and elegant cutlery: it’s a paragon of charm without ostentation – a reflection of Clemi’s modest refinement, and a quality she transmits to all her staff.

Such a unique ambiance deserved to be replicated in one of the most exclusive private clubs in the world.
As Nicolò explains: “In the summer of 2023, an Englishman on holiday in the area had lunch and dinner here for the entire two weeks of his stay. Before leaving, he lavished us with compliments, and asked if we’d be interested in hosting a pop up of our osteria in London. We obviously said yes, in particular as we always try to avoid saying ‘no’ to our guests, but were nonetheless somewhat bemused.
But shortly afterwards, the managers of 5 Hertford Street, a historic private members club based in London – famed throughout the world for its extreme secrecy and exclusiveness – paid us a visit. They photographed the interiors and then invited us to spend two evenings cooking for their members, saying they’d arrange everything else. So off we went, Aunt Clemi, two of our cooks – Roberta Casagrande and Raihan Alì – and I. When we saw the entire second floor of the exclusive club transformed into our osteria we were speechless. They’d reproduced all our decor and mise en place, including some truly amazing large photographic panels and tapestries. And they’d reserved a room next to the fireplace where, like some ancient princess, Clemi received the guests, who lined up to meet her and shake her hand”.

We’d previously agreed the evening’s menu with the club, which naturally included a selection of Il Castelletto’s most iconic dishes, and the evening kicked off with an aperitif of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG.

“Being in based in the UK’s capital, it was easy for the club to source all the ingredients we asked for, including sopressa, and of course the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco.
What surprised us more, though, was just how many of the waiters were young Italians.
They were amazed at the success of the two evenings, which each hosted 100 guests, and the phone never stopped ringing the moment bookings opened. Curious, they couldn’t help but ask us: ‘So… just how famous is Clemi that so many people want to meet her?’ But despite her modesty, Clemi is used to this: some of her patrons travel from far and wide to enjoy her cuisine and the exclusive atmosphere of her osteria, with some even flying in on private planes.”

Exclusive, yes, but not overly so.
Nicolò again: “Regardless of who our guests are, we welcome them all with the same warmth, whether they be locals, important executives, famous actors or families. And always with heart – that’s our secret ingredient”.